From the shores of Lake Crescent to the top of Happy Lake Ridge

On an overnight hike, I hiked to the top of Happy Lake Ridge and connected up with the Happy Lake trail that I hiked in 2020. 18.8 miles and 4,400 feet of elevation gain.

Left home at 11:00 am on Wednesday and drove to the Storm King Ranger Station parking lot. Started hiking up the Barnes Creek trail at 1:45. There are tons of people on the first half mile, going to Marymere Falls, but after I left the crowds behind, I didn't see a soul.

The skies were gray and the afternoon seemed dull and lifeless, but the weather forecast was for sunny skies the next day. I was mindful of my weak left ankle and my tender left big toe, so I walked carefully up the steep stretches of the trail. Since I had plenty of time, I walked at a moderate pace and my toe and ankle gave me no problems at all.

Dismal Draw camp

I set up camp and made a fire to make it a little more cheerful. I read the essay Nature from a book of essays by Ralph Waldo Emerson. Not sure I understood most of it. Had dinner (freeze dried lasagna, not very good) and kept reading. Got in my sleeping bag at 8:30 and fell asleep soon after.

Woke up at 5:45, had coffee and granola for breakfast and started hiking at 7:15. It was a cool, clear morning and it was pleasant to hike in the fresh morning air. 

Looking across to Storm King Mountain in the morning mist

The trail zigzags up an Eastern-facing slope that has a stand of mature hemlock and Doug fir. Nice and open with hardly any underbrush.

I counted 41 switchbacks as I slowly made my way up the slope. The trail is in great shape, with a smooth tread and a steady grade. What a pleasure to hike. I took a 15 minute break every hour, and I was pleased to see that my legs held up well. My toe and my ankle also did fine. On the advice of my niece, Annie Jo, I used two hiking poles this trip, and I think they helped me walk in a more upright and balanced way, which helped my feet.

I arrived at the Aurora Ridge trail junction at 10:45 and was swarmed with clouds of mosquitoes. I had planned to take a nice long break at this point, but instead I put on my headnet and long sleeved shirt and kept on going.

 

 The top of the ridge

The last 1.8 miles along the ridgetop was tougher than I expected, but I arrived at the junction with the Happy Lake Ridge trail just before noon. I was last at this junction in 2020, when I hiked the Happy Lake Ridge loop. 

Proof that I made it to the top

Turned around and started down. Found a good place for lunch and a brief rest, then continued on. My legs felt good so I just kept going down the switchbacks. It was lovely in the afternoon air, ambling down the trail.

 

Going down through the big timber

Got back to camp at 3:15 and took a good long rest, including a short nap. I was tired, but I wanted to get home and sleep in my own bed, so at 4:00 I shouldered my pack and started back to the car. The last four miles were weary ones with many short breaks, but I got back to the car at 6:00 and called Katy.

Stopped at a hamburger drive-through joint in Port Angeles and got a double cheeseburger. It tasted great! Home by 8:30.

Barnes Creek on a hot day

Hiked up Barnes Creek near Lake Crescent to Dismal Draw camp. 8 miles and 1,400 feet elevation gain.

I wanted to check out the campsite at Dismal Draw to see if it would be a good place to camp on my way to hike to the top of Happy Lake Ridge. In Robert Woods' guide book, he mentions a camp here with water, so I thought I'd check it out.

Left home at 6:30 am, got to the trailhead at Storm King Ranger Station and started hiking by 8:45. Still pretty cool under the big trees and not too many hikers on the Marymere Falls trail.

 The creek is quite lovely in the lower reaches.

The trail goes up and down as it avoids several cliffs next to the creek. I found myself getting tired on the uphill sections. It was a warm day and the heat seemed to sap my energy.

 Made it to the Dismal Draw Camp at 10:45 and took a break. It's not really dismal, in fact it seemed kind of peaceful and quiet. Nice little brook nearby.

Continued up the trail past the junction that leads to the Aurora Ridge Trail. 

Turned back after a particularly good viewpoint looking out over Barnes Creek and Storm King Mountain. Had lunch at the campsite and took a good 15-minute nap. Started down at 12:45

On the way up, my left ankle was giving me trouble. Because I'm favoring my left big toe, there's additional stress on my ankle. Made it to the car at 2:35 and started home. Got a coffee at Starbucks in Sequim and made it home by 5:00.

Marmot Pass on a sore ankle

 Marmot Pass July 5, 2022

10.6 miles and 3,500 feet elevation gain

Left home at 6:45 and got to the trailhead at 8:15, started hiking at 8:25. It was a cool, clear morning and the air was fresh on the trail. The first part of the trail is up and down through the big trees, with the river to your left.

The lower trail

 I got to Shelter Rock camp at 9:45, going at a pretty decent pace. Took a good break and started up the trail which has a long, steady incline. I felt pretty strong and kept a steady pace, slowing down when I got winded.

I got to the avalanche chutes and saw flowers, but not as many as I've seen in previous trips. Too early, I guess. The view across the valley to the mountains was splendid.

 

Avalanche chute

Mountains across the valley

There was a little snow on the switchbacks above Camp Mystery, but it was easy to walk on. By this time I was getting pretty tired and my left ankle was starting to hurt a little. Arrived at Marmot Pass at 12:15, just under four hours. Only saw two guys and a single hiker on the way up.

At the pass

 I climbed the knob above the pass and sat down on a ledge looking out over the Dungeness River Valley with a great view. Enjoyed a lunch of cheese, raisins, crackers, peanut butter, chocolate, and an orange.

Started down at 1:05 feeling a little stiff. Met a group of six women in their sixties from Bainbridge Island. One of them said they've done this hike half a dozen times. As I walked downhill, my left big toe and my left achilles tendon started to bother me. I think I've been favoring my toe and walking in such a way as to inflame the tendon. Tried to ignore the pain and go easy as I went down the trail.

At Shelter Rock Camp I looked around for a big rock that would be the "shelter," because I was mystified that I'd never seen one. Sure enough, I found a rock with an overhang big enough to sleep under, except that the river is now flowing under the overhang. Maybe it was a good camp shelter years ago.

Lots of people on the trail going down, something like 16. Clouds moved in and it started raining lightly just as I got back to the car. Made it back to the car at 3:50 and started home. Got a good cup of coffee at the new coffee stand in Quilcene.

Up the Dungeness River to Boulder Shelter

Friday, June 24, 2022 - 12.6 miles and 2,000 feet elevation gain

I left the house at 6:30 am and started hiking at the trailhead at 8:45. It was a beautiful day for hiking -- cool and clear all day. The air felt cold as I headed up the Dungeness River trail, but I warmed up as I strode along. It felt good to be hiking. 

The big firs on the lower trail

Footbridge over the Dungeness River

 I got to Royal Creek in twenty minutes and I arrived at the footbridge at 9:45, exactly one hour. Took a ten minute break and met a photographer coming down the trail. He was hoping to photograph the rhododendron blossoms, but they were still in tight little buds.

Hiked past Camp Handy and started into the steep section of the trail. I felt surprisingly strong and took very few breaks. When I got tired, I just slowed my pace a little. Took a break after another hour. The last mile and a half to Boulder Shelter always seems to take forever because there are no landmarks.

 Finally I reached some good views across the valley and not long after that I emerged into the meadows at Boulder Shelter.

The boulders at Boulder Shelter

I leaned my back against a small boulder and enjoyed a leisurely lunch of peanut butter and crackers, raisins and cheese, chocolate, and an orange. Drifted off into a nice nap in the warm sun.

I woke up at the sound of hiker's voices and decided to pack up and leave. I made my way back down the trail at a leisurely pace, daydreaming as I went. The miles seemed to fly by, and I got to the trailhead at 4:15. Stopped at Camp Handy for a break on the way back.

I was really pleased to find that I'm in pretty good shape. My left big toe, which has bothered me in the past, gave me no trouble at all.

Dosewallips River hike

I planned to hike to the Dosewallips Ranger Station for an early season hike. There used to be a gravel road all the way to the ranger station, but the road washed out in 2003, making it only a foot trail on the old road bed. The weather forecast called for rain in the afternoon, but I decided to go anyway and I was lucky. It was overcast the whole day, but no rain.

My plan was to hike a couple of hours, then turn around. But when I got to the park boundary and the sign said only 1.2 miles to the campground, I decided to go all the way. I hiked 13.5 miles in total with 1,100 feet elevation gain. Pretty good for early in the season.

 

The approach from the parking area is now a mile longer than it used to be because the Forest Service blocked the entrance road at a small slide. This isn't all bad, because the first mile is a pleasant stroll along a flat trail. The main road washout a mile in is easier to get around now, and I had no trouble. (The last time I hiked this trail was in 2014).

The old road makes a good surface for the first major hike of the year. The fine gravel surface and steady incline makes it easy to stride along.

 I left home at 7:45 and started hiking at 9:15. I explored Elkhorn Campground located at mile 1.5, and found it's a delightful area along the river with many fine campsites. It would make for an easy overnight someday. From the campground, the road leads steadily upward, and once I got my stride, the miles seemed to fly by. My legs felt fine and I took only one or two breaks.

When I got to the falls, the canyon was filled with the sound of rushing water from melting snowpack up higher. The amount of water crashing down the rocks is stunning. Took a few photos to capture the magnificent volume. From there it was an easy stroll to the campground, although by this time my legs were getting tired. 

I hiked up to the old ranger station to find that it has deteriorated a lot since I was last here. A couple of trees have fallen, shearing off parts of the porch roof. An man in his sixties launched into a long description of the place. He said he's come to this campground since he was a boy, and he often makes the hike once a week. Lots of lore about the place.

Ate lunch at a picnic table by the river and started down. My legs were complaining and my left big toe hurt on the downhill sections. Probably I should have cut this hike a bit shorter, but I just kept trundling along and got back to the car by 3:15. A good day!

Big Creek Loop: First Hike of 2022

I didn't hike at all during 2021 because I was building my art studio. This was my first hike of 2022.

This hike was a test run to see if I’m in shape. I did the 4.2 mile hike with 850 feet of elevation gain in two hours without stopping. It felt good!

The trail follows an old logging road that goes up steeply for the first couple miles (going counterclockwise). The weather was cloudy with just enough light showers to keep me cool. I went steadily uphill, slowing down for the steep sections, until I got to the first creek.

After that the trail was up and down until I got to Big Creek, at which point it went downhill, flattened out, then another downhill section before flattening out along the creek. The trail was in great shape with a wide tread. Lots of people on the trail, even on a Thursday afternoon.

 

I was concerned about the condition of my feet, especially my left big toe. My feet felt great on the uphill portion of the trail, but coming down I had some pain in the front part of my left foot. But actually it wasn’t too bad, and I feel like I’m in pretty good shape.

A good starter hike for this year’s hiking season.

Hike to Bark Shanty and Camp Jolley September 18, 2020

 The weather forecast was for rain, so I thought I'd hike the easy 2.7 miles to Bark Shanty in the rain, have a cup of hot cocoa, and return to the trailhead in the rain. But it didn't rain, so I extended my hike to Camp Jolly, about 4.7 miles from the trailhead, for a total of 9.4 miles.

I left the house at7:15 and arrived at the Lower Big Quilcene Trailhead at 8:17. Started hiking at 8:30. It was cool and cloudy with some smoke oin the air from the forest fires that have been burning in Oregon and Washington.

At the trailhead

The first part of the trail is an old road that stays almost level on its way to the river crossing. Easy walking.

The trail begins on an old roadbed

It took me 55 minutes to walk the 2.7 miles to Bark Shanty. That's about 3 miles an hour, not bad. Bark Shanty is a large flat area covered in pine needles, beneath huge Douglas Fir trees. There's room for several campsites under the trees and alongside the river. Just a lovely place. I sat down for a fifteen minute break and caught my breath.

Bark Shanty camp

Since it was only 9:30, I decided to continue two miles up the river to Camp Jolley. The trail becomes a regular footpath following the river. In places the trail goes through second growth timber because they logged the hillsides right down to the river, pulling the trees up to the logging roads above. In places there are still stands of larger timber.

Big Quilcene River

Camp Jolley wasn't as picturesque as Bark Shanty, but I stopped for a break anyway. Returned to Bark Shanty and rested with my back to a big fir. I took out my stove and boiled some water for hot cocoa. It was a nice break. Returned to the trailhead, arriving at 1:10.

The only people I saw were four young women near the bridge. Other than that, I had the trail to myself. It started raining just as I got back to the car. Home by 2:17.