Lower part of Hurricane Ridge Trail, September 19, 2022

I forgot to take my phone on this hike, so the post has no photos.

I hiked from the Madison Falls parking lot on the lower Elwha River up the Hurricane Ridge trail until I came out into the alpine meadows. I had lunch, then returned the way I came.

I split this trail into two parts so I could do it in two day hikes. This hike was the lower section. Later I'll hike from the Hurricane Ridge parking lot down to the point where I left off in the meadows.

I left home at 6:00 am and started hiking at 8:00. One hour of brisk hiking on the road brought me to the trailhead at 9:00. The trail climbs steadily through the forest with many switchbacks. At first there was a lot of ferns and brush, but as I got higher the forest became more open. It seemed like I was crawling up the switchbacks, stopping often for rest breaks, but as the morning wore on I made good progress. It was a lovely day, cool and clear.

About noon I began to see a break in the forest above, and soon I came out into the bottom of the meadows. I lost the trail and had to break through the bushes until I came across it higher on the slope. I struggled up one more switchback and took my lunch break at 12:40 pm.

I could see everything in the Elwha River valley below. It was gratifying to see the areas I've hiked in the past, especially up the Elwha and up Boulder Creek. After lunch I hiked up another switchback to a prominent tree that I can use as a landmark when I return to finish the trail. This was about 4,500 feet elevation.

I started back down at 1:20 and enjoyed an easy descent. The trail seemed so much more pleasant on the way down. I got to the trailhead at 4:00 and I was exhausted and my feet were sore. Took a twenty minute break, but my legs didn't want to get up and hike again.

Hiked down the road slowly and finally came to the trailhead at 5:00. I was glad to change my shoes and get in the comfortable seat of the car.

Got an ice cream cone in Port Angeles and arrived home for dinner at 7:00.

Up Little River trail to Hurricane Ridge September 5-6, 2022

 I hiked up Little River from the outskirts of Port Angeles to the top of Hurricane Ridge, 18.0 miles and 4,100 feet elevation gain, a tough hike.

In order to cut down the distance a little, I hiked in two miles on Monday night after dinner and camped at the first river crossing. Before I left home, Katy and I cooked eggs and pancakes for an early dinner, and I left home at 5:35 pm. Got to the trailhead about five miles outside of Port Angeles and started hiking at 7:35 pm. It was nearing dusk as I started, and by the time I got to the campsite, it was pretty dark. Had to use my headlamp to lay out my sleeping bag.

I knew it would be too dark when I arrived to find a tree and hang my food, so I brought my bear canister instead. This was a minimal camp, just my sleeping bag and pad and granola bars for breakfast. It got quite cold during the night and my sleeping bag was too thin to keep me warm. At 2 am I put my down jacket around my legs, and at 4 am I put my goretex parka on. I didn’t sleep much after 4:00, and I got up in the dim light at 5:45.

Ate my granola bars with some reconstituted whole milk for breakfast and started up the trail at 6:25. I missed my hot coffee and oatmeal. In the bottom of the canyon, the air was still quite cool and the light was dim. The sunlight didn’t hit me until well after 9:00.

The lower bridge

There are five bridges over the river as the trail crosses back and forth. The trail twists and turns in the lower portion, with lots of rocks and roots that make it hard to find one’s stride. But I made good time up the lower trail.

The Green rope bridge

About half way up, the trail begins to ascend the south slope on a steady grade. There are downed trees over the trail that have to be negotiated. But after a couple of miles the valley levels off and there is a stretch of almost flat trail. Really a pleasure to stride along this section, especially since the sun was shining at this point.

Sunlit trail

 The trail comes back to the creek and winds through thick alder and salmon berry brush before it starts up the last mile to the ridge. This section is aggressively steep, and I had to take many small breather stops to keep going. I was fatigued, and only the knowledge that the end was near kept me going.

Finally I heard voices above me and knew I was almost there. I emerged onto the asphalt path that runs along the ridge at 11:40. There was a crowd of hikers on the path, clad in LL Bean hiking gear, chatting merrily as they strolled along. I sat at the edge of the asphalt and ate lunch, ignoring them. It seemed like they had cheated by driving up to the ridge instead of sweating up it like I did.

The view down Little River drainage

I brought along dried peanut butter for the first time, but I added too much water and it turned into a runny mess. Awful. Next time I’ll bring regular old peanut butter.

Started down the trail at 12:25, slowing myself with my two hiking poles. Soon I could feel the strain on my thighs and knees as every step was a braking maneuver. I was glad to arrive at the flat stretch of trail where I could stride easily. About two pm I took a break in the sun. I was so tired I let myself fall into a delicious 30-minute nap. One of the best naps I can remember.

Continued down the trail quite a bit refreshed. The lower stretch felt new to me in the pleasant afternoon light. I’d hardly seen anything on the way up in the dim morning light. Arrived back at my campsite at 4:00 feeling quite tired. Packed up the things I had stored behind a tree and started out on the last two miles to the car.

Does this rock look like a moss-covered gnome to you?

Those last two miles were tough. I forced myself to put one foot in front of the other. Although it’s a good trail and nearly flat, in my fatigue it seemed like climbing Mount Everest. Finally arrived at the car at 5:30 and called Katy to let her know I was safe.

Drove to the Corner Caboose where I had the good sandwich last week and ordered a cheeseburger. It was divine.

West end of Aurora Ridge

 I hiked up the west end of Aurora Ridge so that I have now completed the entire Aurora Ridge trail. 15.0 miles this trip and about 3,800 feet elevation gain.

Left home on Wednesday at 9:30, got my permit from the Wilderness Information Center at 11:15, reached the trailhead at 12:25. Hiked for an hour and had lunch, then continued up the ridge to the Eagle Lakes turnoff. The afternoon was hot and there was no breeze under the trees at first. My legs felt like lead.

 

After awhile the canopy opened up and I could feel a cooling breeze. The trail was lovely, leading steadily uphill through stands of timber. Reached the turnoff to Eagle Lakes at 4:10 and descended the 400 feet to the lake, arriving at 4:30. I was tired.

Afternoon sun on the trees at Eagle Lakes

 

 

 

 

My camp at Eagle Lakes

 

 

The lake was serene, with the sun going down on the trees on the far side of the lake. Relaxed and solved a crossword puzzle, made dinner, read from Emerson's Essays. Asleep by nine.

Making coffee in the morning

Slept until six, then retrieved my food sack where I'd hung it. Made coffee, had granola and packed up. On the trail by 7:25. Climbed back up the 400 feet to the ridge trail, then continued along the ridge in the cool morning air. The trail continued along the ridge top, occasionally traversing on one side or the other. Not many views because of the trees.

Hiking along the ridge in the early morning

Stopped at Sourdough Camp to look at the old shelter runs and check the spring. It was completely dry. Arrived at the Aurora Creek trail junction at 11:10 and started down the switchbacks to the highway. Had lunch partway down the spine of the ridge.

Going down the steep Aurora Creek trail

The switchbacks were just as excruciating as the last time I descended them. My thighs were aching and my feet were sore by the time I got to the bottom. 

 When I reached the turnout on the highway, I called Clallam Transport and asked the dispatcher to tell the bus driver to stop for me. Waited for over an hour for the bus to arrive, just before 4:00, and climbed on for the short ride to Sol Duc road. 

Hiked up the road with my thumb out but I didn't have any luck for the first mile. Then a nice lady with a toddler in a car seat stopped for me. "Do you need something?" she asked. I think she felt sorry for me. She gave me a ride for the last 1.7 miles to the car.

Hitchhiking the last couple of miles to get back to my car

Drove in a leisurely manner into Port Angeles, where I stopped at the Corner Caboose, a tiny food truck at the outskirts of town, where I had the best pulled pork sandwich I can remember. The pork was tender and juicy with a deep smoked flavor, with cole slaw on a soft warm bun. Delicious. Home by 8:15 pm.