Marmot Pass hike July 20, 2023

Finally got up to the mountains after a month of other activities (plein air painting in the San Juan Islands and a watercolor workshop with artist Eric Wiegardt). Guy and I hiked to Marmot Pass on a warm, sunny day. 11.2 miles and 3,600 feet elevation gain.

We left at 6:45 am and got to the trailhead in time to start hiking at 8:35. It was pleasantly cool on the lower trail, although I felt a bit sluggish. We got to Shelter Rock camp around ten, then started up the incline on the south slope. 

Hiking the lower trail in the morning shadows

 By the time we got to the avalanche paths, it was getting hot and we were both getting tired. We took lots of short breaks to catch our breath.

Flowers in the avalanche paths

We made it to Camp Mystery about 12:00 and collapsed under some trees near the creek. We had a good lunch and a short nap.

Guy at lunch

About 12:45 we started up the trail, both of us feeling quite a bit better. Guy really got a second wind. We made it to the pass at 2:05 and took a few photos. After a short break, we started down. 

At the pass

Guy exploring Marmot Pass

Me at the pass

Took it pretty easy on the way down, kept the pace slow and took 15 minute breaks every hour. Got back to the car at 5:05 and started home. Katy had turkey burgers and potato salad for dinner. Delicious!

I was careful not to strain my Achilles tendon and my left ankle. I did pretty good until we started down. The pounding on the way down was hard on my left big toe and ankle, but I got back to the car without any major problems. I was discouraged about how fatigued I was around noon. Last year I made it to the pass in an hour less than this year.

Up Little River trail to Hurricane Ridge September 5-6, 2022

 I hiked up Little River from the outskirts of Port Angeles to the top of Hurricane Ridge, 18.0 miles and 4,100 feet elevation gain, a tough hike.

In order to cut down the distance a little, I hiked in two miles on Monday night after dinner and camped at the first river crossing. Before I left home, Katy and I cooked eggs and pancakes for an early dinner, and I left home at 5:35 pm. Got to the trailhead about five miles outside of Port Angeles and started hiking at 7:35 pm. It was nearing dusk as I started, and by the time I got to the campsite, it was pretty dark. Had to use my headlamp to lay out my sleeping bag.

I knew it would be too dark when I arrived to find a tree and hang my food, so I brought my bear canister instead. This was a minimal camp, just my sleeping bag and pad and granola bars for breakfast. It got quite cold during the night and my sleeping bag was too thin to keep me warm. At 2 am I put my down jacket around my legs, and at 4 am I put my goretex parka on. I didn’t sleep much after 4:00, and I got up in the dim light at 5:45.

Ate my granola bars with some reconstituted whole milk for breakfast and started up the trail at 6:25. I missed my hot coffee and oatmeal. In the bottom of the canyon, the air was still quite cool and the light was dim. The sunlight didn’t hit me until well after 9:00.

The lower bridge

There are five bridges over the river as the trail crosses back and forth. The trail twists and turns in the lower portion, with lots of rocks and roots that make it hard to find one’s stride. But I made good time up the lower trail.

The Green rope bridge

About half way up, the trail begins to ascend the south slope on a steady grade. There are downed trees over the trail that have to be negotiated. But after a couple of miles the valley levels off and there is a stretch of almost flat trail. Really a pleasure to stride along this section, especially since the sun was shining at this point.

Sunlit trail

 The trail comes back to the creek and winds through thick alder and salmon berry brush before it starts up the last mile to the ridge. This section is aggressively steep, and I had to take many small breather stops to keep going. I was fatigued, and only the knowledge that the end was near kept me going.

Finally I heard voices above me and knew I was almost there. I emerged onto the asphalt path that runs along the ridge at 11:40. There was a crowd of hikers on the path, clad in LL Bean hiking gear, chatting merrily as they strolled along. I sat at the edge of the asphalt and ate lunch, ignoring them. It seemed like they had cheated by driving up to the ridge instead of sweating up it like I did.

The view down Little River drainage

I brought along dried peanut butter for the first time, but I added too much water and it turned into a runny mess. Awful. Next time I’ll bring regular old peanut butter.

Started down the trail at 12:25, slowing myself with my two hiking poles. Soon I could feel the strain on my thighs and knees as every step was a braking maneuver. I was glad to arrive at the flat stretch of trail where I could stride easily. About two pm I took a break in the sun. I was so tired I let myself fall into a delicious 30-minute nap. One of the best naps I can remember.

Continued down the trail quite a bit refreshed. The lower stretch felt new to me in the pleasant afternoon light. I’d hardly seen anything on the way up in the dim morning light. Arrived back at my campsite at 4:00 feeling quite tired. Packed up the things I had stored behind a tree and started out on the last two miles to the car.

Does this rock look like a moss-covered gnome to you?

Those last two miles were tough. I forced myself to put one foot in front of the other. Although it’s a good trail and nearly flat, in my fatigue it seemed like climbing Mount Everest. Finally arrived at the car at 5:30 and called Katy to let her know I was safe.

Drove to the Corner Caboose where I had the good sandwich last week and ordered a cheeseburger. It was divine.

East Aurora Ridge hike August 17-18, 2022

I hiked from the Storm King Ranger Station on Lake Crescent up Barnes Creek to Aurora Ridge, along the ridge, and then back to Highway 101 down Aurora Creek trail. 15.8 miles, 4,100 feet elevation gain.

On Wednesday morning I got up at 5:30 and was on the road at 6:05. At 8:25 I arrived at the Storm King Ranger Station and started up the Barnes Creek trail. This is the same trail I hiked last week, so I knew it well.

Lower Barnes Creek trail in the cool morning

I knew I had 8 miles and 3,700 feet of elevation to gain, so I walked steadily with a 15 minute break every hour. I was surprised at what good progress I made. My legs felt fine and I marched right up the trail. I got to the upper Barnes Creek camp at 3:00 and took a long break.

Upper Barnes Creek camp

From my last hike I knew there would be mosquitoes, so I brought my one-man tent, and it turned out to be a godsend. Around dinner time the mosquitoes came out in force, and by 8:00 I was forced to dive into the tent for my own protection. It was a relief to get away from them and watch them fly impotently outside the tent netting.

For this hike I brought the book Their Eyes Were Watching God by Zora Neale Hurston. It's considered a classic of black literature, written in 1937 by an author who was also an anthropologist. An excellent read.

Almost ready to leave in the morning

 I slept well, waking up very early. Had coffee and granola for breakfast and started hiking at 7:45. It was nice and cool as I started up the last few switchbacks. Got to the Aurora Ridge trail junction at 8:10 and started the hike along the ridge. 

It was easy going at first, almost level with a few ups and downs.Despite being up high, there are very few views because the ridge is well forested. There were a few places to peak out, and I saw views to the North and South.

Boulder Peak and Mt. Appleton to the South

Mount Olympus peaking through the trees.

Aurora meadow

About 10:30 I came to Aurora meadow, a long meadow on a steep slope below Aurora Peak. The trail gets lost in the meadows and it's hard to find where it resumes on the other side. Luckily the trail crew had improved the trail in the meadow and I was able to find Aurora Spring (only moist at this time of year). From there the trail disappeared, but after a little reconnoitering, I found where it left the meadow and continued on.

I reached the junction with the Aurora Creek trail just before noon, and took a break. I was very tired from the poor trail and the ups and down. Then I started down the switchbacks to Highway 101. This trail plunges down the side of the mountain without relenting. My thighs were screaming, my knees were aching, and my feet were protesting.

Looking down at the beautiful blue waters of Lake Crescent.

Finally I could see Lake Crescent through the trees and about 3:30 I emerged onto Highway 101. I called the dispatcher at Clallam Transit and asked him to tell the bus driver to pick me up when he came through. The bus was about twenty minutes late, but when I saw it I flagged it down. It took me to Storm King Ranger Station where my car was waiting.

From the shores of Lake Crescent to the top of Happy Lake Ridge

On an overnight hike, I hiked to the top of Happy Lake Ridge and connected up with the Happy Lake trail that I hiked in 2020. 18.8 miles and 4,400 feet of elevation gain.

Left home at 11:00 am on Wednesday and drove to the Storm King Ranger Station parking lot. Started hiking up the Barnes Creek trail at 1:45. There are tons of people on the first half mile, going to Marymere Falls, but after I left the crowds behind, I didn't see a soul.

The skies were gray and the afternoon seemed dull and lifeless, but the weather forecast was for sunny skies the next day. I was mindful of my weak left ankle and my tender left big toe, so I walked carefully up the steep stretches of the trail. Since I had plenty of time, I walked at a moderate pace and my toe and ankle gave me no problems at all.

Dismal Draw camp

I set up camp and made a fire to make it a little more cheerful. I read the essay Nature from a book of essays by Ralph Waldo Emerson. Not sure I understood most of it. Had dinner (freeze dried lasagna, not very good) and kept reading. Got in my sleeping bag at 8:30 and fell asleep soon after.

Woke up at 5:45, had coffee and granola for breakfast and started hiking at 7:15. It was a cool, clear morning and it was pleasant to hike in the fresh morning air. 

Looking across to Storm King Mountain in the morning mist

The trail zigzags up an Eastern-facing slope that has a stand of mature hemlock and Doug fir. Nice and open with hardly any underbrush.

I counted 41 switchbacks as I slowly made my way up the slope. The trail is in great shape, with a smooth tread and a steady grade. What a pleasure to hike. I took a 15 minute break every hour, and I was pleased to see that my legs held up well. My toe and my ankle also did fine. On the advice of my niece, Annie Jo, I used two hiking poles this trip, and I think they helped me walk in a more upright and balanced way, which helped my feet.

I arrived at the Aurora Ridge trail junction at 10:45 and was swarmed with clouds of mosquitoes. I had planned to take a nice long break at this point, but instead I put on my headnet and long sleeved shirt and kept on going.

 

 The top of the ridge

The last 1.8 miles along the ridgetop was tougher than I expected, but I arrived at the junction with the Happy Lake Ridge trail just before noon. I was last at this junction in 2020, when I hiked the Happy Lake Ridge loop. 

Proof that I made it to the top

Turned around and started down. Found a good place for lunch and a brief rest, then continued on. My legs felt good so I just kept going down the switchbacks. It was lovely in the afternoon air, ambling down the trail.

 

Going down through the big timber

Got back to camp at 3:15 and took a good long rest, including a short nap. I was tired, but I wanted to get home and sleep in my own bed, so at 4:00 I shouldered my pack and started back to the car. The last four miles were weary ones with many short breaks, but I got back to the car at 6:00 and called Katy.

Stopped at a hamburger drive-through joint in Port Angeles and got a double cheeseburger. It tasted great! Home by 8:30.

Mount Townsend, June 19, 2020

Mt. Townsend, June 19, 2020

Guy and I decided to try Mt. Townsend for our first hike of the year. Because of COVID-19, there’s not much to do around Silverdale, so it made sense to go hiking..

We left the house around 6:30 and got there about 8:00. There were quite a few other hikers on the trail. We started up the switchbacks in the cool morning. I felt kind of out of shape, and we took lots of short breaks. My boots didn’t seem to fit quite right, and I could feel a hot spot developing on my left heel. I adjusted my laces several times, but it still wasn’t really comfortable. 

 

The trail has a good surface and a wide tread.

I’ve been up this trail several times before, but I’d forgotten how the views start opening up about halfway up the trail. It was kind of hazy but we could see out across the sound. We were kind of slow, and lots of people passed us. Finally about 11:30 we arrived at the shoulder of the peak. Guy flopped down in the shade of a tree and rested. I decided to go the last little but to the top, and hustled up there. I could see the buildings in downtown Seattle.

 

On top of Mt Townsend.

Guy resting on the shoulder of the mountain.

 

I returned to Guy and we had lunch and took a good rest. I checked my feet and sure enough, I had a blister on my left foot. Put a blister bandaid on it for the hike down. Still had trouble because my toes were jammed up against the front of my boot and my toenails got pushed into my feet. By the time I got to the car, my feet were aching, my left knee hurt, and my back was cranky. I think I need to make some adjustments in my footwear.

Hoh River to Bogachiel River, July 17-18, 2017

This hike was tougher than I anticipated. I got completely worn out. Still, it was a lovely trail and I had almost complete solitude.

I left home Sunday afternoon at 2:45 and drove to the Wilderness Information Center in Port Angeles, arriving at 4:15. When I asked for a permit to the South Snider/Jackson Trail, the severe young woman ranger said, "Why do you want to go there?" She said it was in horrible shape with 140 down trees and route-finding necessary in places. I asked for a permit anyway.

I arrived at the Hoh River car campground about 6 pm and made camp. Did the Saturday night NY Times crossword puzzle. Didn't finish one quarter. Met a nice young couple from Michigan traveling around the country visiting the national parks, from Key West to here.

Up early, I drove to the entrance station and started up the trail at 7:15. It was a clear, cool day, lovely for hiking.

The Hoh River early in the morning.

Leaving the car at the trailhead.

After crossing a flat bench, the trail ascends steeply in a series of switchbacks. It was grueling work, but, contrary to the lady ranger, the trail was clear of down trees. A trail crew had cut it out nicely, at least up to 2,800 feet elevation - about three miles. The lower slopes of this trail pass by huge douglas-fir trees, towering behemoths.

A huge fir behind me.

After three miles, numerous trees that had blown down over the trail. Every blowdown means you have to stop, clamber over or under, and then proceed. It slows you down considerably. Some are huge.

Because the trail gets little use, the tread is soft with duff, mosses, and fronds. It felt quite friendly.

I had lunch on top of the ridge among big trees, then I started down the switchbacks to the Bogachiel River. I was tired and the day was long. It seemed to take forever to get to Tumwata Creek. When I finally got there, I was so tired that I wasn't thinking clearly. I tried to jump from rock to rock, but I misjudged the distance and fell in the creek, soaking my right side up to my chest. My hiking stick started floating downstream and I had to run to grab it before it floated away.

I readjusted my pack and started downstream because I thought the river was just ahead. I stumbled through the brush and stream debris, having a terrible time of it. If I was thinking more clearly, I would have searched for the trail on the bank and it would have been easy. I finally made it to the river and collapsed on the bar. I was so tired I took a nap. When I woke up, I looked for a campsite but couldn't find anything. I decided to walk towards the Bogachiel Camp ford and find a campsite on the way.

The trail along the river is dead flat through meadows and spruce trees. Because it's so lightly used, it's overgrown with ferns and grasses and occasionally disappears, requiring some reconnoitering to find it again.

I arrived at the ford about 6:00 and decided to camp on the river bank. There were lots of mosquitoes and the breeze coming from the river kept them mostly at bay. I made dinner and finished the crossword puzzle. Very tired but happy to be on the river.
 

My camp on the bank of the Bogachiel. I slept like a baby, waking up in the night to brilliant stars across the sky. The Big Dipper and Cassiopeia were visible over the ridge to the North.

Sunrise on the Bogachiel.

The next morning I got started at 7:25, stiffly. The walk back to the junction was easy, but starting up the switchbacks was torture. I took them slowly, taking lots of breaks -- a ten minute break every 30 minutes. Around noon I reached the ridgetop and flopped down for a 45 minute lunch. Then it was down the switchbacks on the other side, with my thighs burning and my feet sore from pounding. I finally reached the car at 6:15 -- almost an 11 hour day!

I put on my clean socks and soft shoes - luxury - and drove to Forks, where I had a huge hamburger at the Blakeslee Bar and Grill. It was OK, not great. I started home, being careful about my driving because I was so tired. About 9:30 -- dusk -- I was entering the Seven Cedars Casino area, and I hit a small deer. It appeared out of nowhere and I had no time to react. The impact broke the left front fender, bumper, and headlight, and killed the deer. I pulled over in shock and called 911 to report it. The car could drive OK, so I drove home, arriving by 11 pm. A long day.

My poor car.

Hoh River Hike August 15-21, 2016

I arranged to have a full week off work so I could have a good five days up the Hoh River. I spent Monday and part of Tuesday drying food and putting my pack together.

 

Food in individual meals

My backpacking gear

I left home at 1:50 pm Tuesday afternoon, stopping at the Wilderness Information Center in Port Angeles about 3:30 to get my permit. I arrived at the Hoh River Campground near the Visitor Center about 6 pm and set up camp. I made some dinner (Canned beef stew) and walked around the grounds. It was a quiet evening, very peaceful. Chatted with my neighbor, a 55ish woman in a camper van with a big dog traveling by herself.

Hoh River Campground

From the campground as the sun was going down

The next morning I got on the trail by 7 am. The first 12 miles of trail are nearly flat and the trail surface is flat and wide -- easy traveling. I had many good views of the Hoh River as I walked alongside it. The fall floods scour the bottom so there are wide gravel bars nearly the whole length.

Hoh River in the morning

The travelling was easy and I was surprised to find myself at Olympus Guard Station, my goal for the day, at 11:40 am! I spent the afternoon relaxing in the meadow.

Olympus Guard Station

(Taken with the camera timer) I listened to "The Thirty Greatest Orchestral Works," one the of Great Courses.

I camped on the gravel bar because the meadow campsites were taken. They campground was full of people -- probably 25 or 30.

My campsite

Thursday morning I started up the trail to Hoh Lake and Bogachiel Peak as a day hike. Since Bogachiel Peak was fogged in when I climbed it two weeks ago, I wanted to get the views on a clear day.

The elevation gain is 4,200 feet -- quite a challenge. I started up the switchbacks in the cool early morning. By 11:30 I reached Hoh Lake, took a break, and started for Bogachiel Peak. 

Hoh Lake

Above the lake the trail enters the alpine zone and the views open up.

 I came around a corner and saw Mt. Olympus to the south. What an impressive sight!

Mt. Olympus

At 12:40 I reached the top of Bogachiel Peak, slightly tired, and ate my lunch in the company of three guys who were joking around with each other. I could see down into Seven Lakes Basin.

Seven Lakes Basin

On top of Bogachiel Peak, Mt Olympus over my shoulder

I started down the trail, arriving back in camp about 4:45, quite tired. Camped on the gravel bar again. A warm night.

In the morning I packed up and started for Glacier Meadows, 8.3 miles and 3,300 fee up. I was tired from the previous day's hike and went rather slowly. At Hoh Bridge I took a break. The river is a torrent far below in a deep chasm. By noon I got to Elk Lake, where I had lunch with three climbers I'd been passing on the trail. 

After lunch I struggled on, but the trail was steep and I was tired. I went very slowly, sometimes a hundred feet at a time. I was determined to get to Glacier Meadows because I really wanted to see Blue Glacier. The day was very hot and I sweated gallons.

Just before the camp, there's a place where the trail is completely washed out. The only solution for the trail crew was to install a steel-cable-and-wood ladder to get down the washout. It looked scary, but it was actually pretty secure once I was on it.

The hardest part was struggling up the sliding rock and gravel on the other side to get back to the trail. Luckily, the rest of the way was nearly flat and I arrived at Glacier Meadows before 5 pm. I was exhausted and took a long rest before making camp.

Resting at Glacier Meadows camp

The next morning (Saturday), I hiked up to Blue Glacier. On the way I ran into a mama bear and her cub. I circled around her and kept going. I also saw a mountain goat on the mountain side.

The path was steep and went up 700 feet, so it took me until 9 am before I reached the top. When I came over the ridge and saw the sweep of the glacier below me and the whole massive bulk of Mt. Olympus before me, I was in awe. It was magnificent!

After a good interval of time gazing at the scene, I started down. Luckily the rest of the day was downhill. I arrived at Lewis Meadow in mid-afternoon and took a long break. The day was very hot and I was tired.

My camp on the gravel bar near Lewis Meadow.

On Sunday morning a cool front had moved in and there was a lovely cool mist everywhere. I started back to the trailhead, hiking easily with a light pack on the wide trail. 

Arrived at the Visitor Center at 1:45 pm. It was packed with tourists. I cleaned off at the water spigot and took a stroll through the Visitor Center. Got in the car and made it home by 7 pm, stopping at the Bogachiel River to investigate the trailhead there.