I left home Sunday afternoon at 2:45 and drove to the Wilderness Information Center in Port Angeles, arriving at 4:15. When I asked for a permit to the South Snider/Jackson Trail, the severe young woman ranger said, "Why do you want to go there?" She said it was in horrible shape with 140 down trees and route-finding necessary in places. I asked for a permit anyway.
I arrived at the Hoh River car campground about 6 pm and made camp. Did the Saturday night NY Times crossword puzzle. Didn't finish one quarter. Met a nice young couple from Michigan traveling around the country visiting the national parks, from Key West to here.
Up early, I drove to the entrance station and started up the trail at 7:15. It was a clear, cool day, lovely for hiking.
The Hoh River early in the morning.
Leaving the car at the trailhead.
After crossing a flat bench, the trail ascends steeply in a series of switchbacks. It was grueling work, but, contrary to the lady ranger, the trail was clear of down trees. A trail crew had cut it out nicely, at least up to 2,800 feet elevation - about three miles. The lower slopes of this trail pass by huge douglas-fir trees, towering behemoths.
A huge fir behind me.
After three miles, numerous trees that had blown down over the trail. Every blowdown means you have to stop, clamber over or under, and then proceed. It slows you down considerably. Some are huge.
Because the trail gets little use, the tread is soft with duff, mosses, and fronds. It felt quite friendly.
I had lunch on top of the ridge among big trees, then I started down the switchbacks to the Bogachiel River. I was tired and the day was long. It seemed to take forever to get to Tumwata Creek. When I finally got there, I was so tired that I wasn't thinking clearly. I tried to jump from rock to rock, but I misjudged the distance and fell in the creek, soaking my right side up to my chest. My hiking stick started floating downstream and I had to run to grab it before it floated away.
I readjusted my pack and started downstream because I thought the river was just ahead. I stumbled through the brush and stream debris, having a terrible time of it. If I was thinking more clearly, I would have searched for the trail on the bank and it would have been easy. I finally made it to the river and collapsed on the bar. I was so tired I took a nap. When I woke up, I looked for a campsite but couldn't find anything. I decided to walk towards the Bogachiel Camp ford and find a campsite on the way.
The trail along the river is dead flat through meadows and spruce trees. Because it's so lightly used, it's overgrown with ferns and grasses and occasionally disappears, requiring some reconnoitering to find it again.
I arrived at the ford about 6:00 and decided to camp on the river bank. There were lots of mosquitoes and the breeze coming from the river kept them mostly at bay. I made dinner and finished the crossword puzzle. Very tired but happy to be on the river.
My camp on the bank of the Bogachiel. I slept like a baby, waking up in the night to brilliant stars across the sky. The Big Dipper and Cassiopeia were visible over the ridge to the North.
Sunrise on the Bogachiel.
The next morning I got started at 7:25, stiffly. The walk back to the junction was easy, but starting up the switchbacks was torture. I took them slowly, taking lots of breaks -- a ten minute break every 30 minutes. Around noon I reached the ridgetop and flopped down for a 45 minute lunch. Then it was down the switchbacks on the other side, with my thighs burning and my feet sore from pounding. I finally reached the car at 6:15 -- almost an 11 hour day!
I put on my clean socks and soft shoes - luxury - and drove to Forks, where I had a huge hamburger at the Blakeslee Bar and Grill. It was OK, not great. I started home, being careful about my driving because I was so tired. About 9:30 -- dusk -- I was entering the Seven Cedars Casino area, and I hit a small deer. It appeared out of nowhere and I had no time to react. The impact broke the left front fender, bumper, and headlight, and killed the deer. I pulled over in shock and called 911 to report it. The car could drive OK, so I drove home, arriving by 11 pm. A long day.
My poor car.
