I love to go a-wandering off the beaten track,
and as I go, I love to sing, my knapsack on my back.
Val-di-ree, Val-di-rah,
Val-di-ree, Val-di-rah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha
Val-di-ree, Val-di-rah,
My knapsack on my back.

Thursday, July 27, 2023

Pyramid Mountain July 27, 2023

 On a lovely sunny day, I hiked from the Railroad trail on Lake Crescent to the top of Pyramid Peak, about 7 miles and 2,500 feet elevation gain.

I left home at 7:00 am and arrived at the trailhead in time to start hiking at 9:30. A young woman and an older couple were just ahead of me, and I had a nice chat with them at the top.

Going up through the big trees in the morning

The lower trail is quite nice hiking, with a steady incline and a nice tread. After an hour I reached a big slide that the trail crosses. The trail reports made a big deal about the danger crossing the slide because of the difficulty of finding good footing on the shifting gravel, but I had no trouble.

The big slide

I took a break just after the slide, then continued on the the top and arrived at 12:15. The last half of the trail was considerably steeper with some switchbacks, and I found myself stopping for short rest breaks often.

Looking down on Lake Crescent

At the top I found the old lookout building in good shape. It was built during WWII to spot Japanese ships coming up the Strait of Jan de Fuca, and it's been maintained well. Looking down from the peak, Lake Crescent appears as a deep blue jewel, with tiny colorful dots that are kayaks. You can look right down on top of Crescent Lodge. Lovely view.

The old lookout

I ate my lunch in the shade of the lookout and had a comfortable conversation with Jim Clyburn and his wife. Jim is a retired Forest Service employee and worked on the Tongass National Forest and the Willamette National Forest, same as me, so we had a lot to talk about. Jim and his wife pointed out several plants and gave their names. They're involved in conserving endangered species of wild plants in the Cascades.

On the way down

At 1:00 I started down, taking it slow and easy. Arrived at the car at 2:45 and started home, arriving by 5:15.

Thursday, July 20, 2023

Marmot Pass hike July 20, 2023

Finally got up to the mountains after a month of other activities (plein air painting in the San Juan Islands and a watercolor workshop with artist Eric Wiegardt). Guy and I hiked to Marmot Pass on a warm, sunny day. 11.2 miles and 3,600 feet elevation gain.

We left at 6:45 am and got to the trailhead in time to start hiking at 8:35. It was pleasantly cool on the lower trail, although I felt a bit sluggish. We got to Shelter Rock camp around ten, then started up the incline on the south slope. 

Hiking the lower trail in the morning shadows

 By the time we got to the avalanche paths, it was getting hot and we were both getting tired. We took lots of short breaks to catch our breath.

Flowers in the avalanche paths

We made it to Camp Mystery about 12:00 and collapsed under some trees near the creek. We had a good lunch and a short nap.
Guy at lunch

About 12:45 we started up the trail, both of us feeling quite a bit better. Guy really got a second wind. We made it to the pass at 2:05 and took a few photos. After a short break, we started down. 

At the pass

Guy exploring Marmot Pass

Me at the pass

Took it pretty easy on the way down, kept the pace slow and took 15 minute breaks every hour. Got back to the car at 5:05 and started home. Katy had turkey burgers and potato salad for dinner. Delicious!

I was careful not to strain my Achilles tendon and my left ankle. I did pretty good until we started down. The pounding on the way down was hard on my left big toe and ankle, but I got back to the car without any major problems. I was discouraged about how fatigued I was around noon. Last year I made it to the pass in an hour less than this year.

Monday, May 22, 2023

Dosewallips River Hike May 22, 2023

 For my first hike of the season, I hiked up the Dosewallips River to the old campground, about 13 miles and 1,600 feet elevation gain. This was my first hike with my new Oboz boots. I bought them because my new orthotic inserts fit in them and allow me to wear a lighter boot than the old heavy boots I used last year. So much lighter!

I had a quick breakfast of oatmeal and a banana and left home at 6:40 am. Arrived at the trailhead and started hiking at 8:03. It was a nice cool morning and there were only two other cars at the trailhead.

Starting out in the cool morning air.

 I walked briskly up the first section of trail which is on the old road bed and is flat and well-graveled. Got around the washout easily and continued past the turnoff to Elkhorn Campground. 

The washout

 As the road started to get steeper, I slowed down but still made good progress. I took two rest  breaks and arrived at the campground at 11:08. Checked out the old ranger station buildings, which took hits from falling trees last winter and are looking kind of dilapidated.

The old Forest Service car campground

Had lunch leaning against a big log in the middle of the campground. Peanut butter, crackers, raisins, cheese, chocolate and a granola bar.

Lunch at the campground

At 11:47 I started down. Stopped at the falls to watch the huge torrent of snowmelt rushing over the rocks. 
Dosewallips Falls

The view on the way down

Before I started in the morning, I was a little worried about the Achilles tendon on my left foot because it had given me some pain on my daily walks. It felt all right on the way up the trail but when I started down it began to hurt. I tried adjusting my boot and slowing down. Sometimes the pain eased up and other times it was worse.

By the time I got to the last mile, it was hurting badly but I just ignored it and pushed through the pain. That probably wasn't such a good idea, because it hurt for days afterward.

Got to the car, very tired, at 2:08 and drove home. Stopped in Quilcene for coffee at the coffee stand and an ice cream bar at the store.

Monday, September 19, 2022

Lower part of Hurricane Ridge Trail, September 19, 2022

I forgot to take my phone on this hike, so the post has no photos.

I hiked from the Madison Falls parking lot on the lower Elwha River up the Hurricane Ridge trail until I came out into the alpine meadows. I had lunch, then returned the way I came.

I split this trail into two parts so I could do it in two day hikes. This hike was the lower section. Later I'll hike from the Hurricane Ridge parking lot down to the point where I left off in the meadows.

I left home at 6:00 am and started hiking at 8:00. One hour of brisk hiking on the road brought me to the trailhead at 9:00. The trail climbs steadily through the forest with many switchbacks. At first there was a lot of ferns and brush, but as I got higher the forest became more open. It seemed like I was crawling up the switchbacks, stopping often for rest breaks, but as the morning wore on I made good progress. It was a lovely day, cool and clear.

About noon I began to see a break in the forest above, and soon I came out into the bottom of the meadows. I lost the trail and had to break through the bushes until I came across it higher on the slope. I struggled up one more switchback and took my lunch break at 12:40 pm.

I could see everything in the Elwha River valley below. It was gratifying to see the areas I've hiked in the past, especially up the Elwha and up Boulder Creek. After lunch I hiked up another switchback to a prominent tree that I can use as a landmark when I return to finish the trail. This was about 4,500 feet elevation.

I started back down at 1:20 and enjoyed an easy descent. The trail seemed so much more pleasant on the way down. I got to the trailhead at 4:00 and I was exhausted and my feet were sore. Took a twenty minute break, but my legs didn't want to get up and hike again.

Hiked down the road slowly and finally came to the trailhead at 5:00. I was glad to change my shoes and get in the comfortable seat of the car.

Got an ice cream cone in Port Angeles and arrived home for dinner at 7:00.

Tuesday, September 6, 2022

Up Little River trail to Hurricane Ridge September 5-6, 2022

 I hiked up Little River from the outskirts of Port Angeles to the top of Hurricane Ridge, 18.0 miles and 4,100 feet elevation gain, a tough hike.

In order to cut down the distance a little, I hiked in two miles on Monday night after dinner and camped at the first river crossing. Before I left home, Katy and I cooked eggs and pancakes for an early dinner, and I left home at 5:35 pm. Got to the trailhead about five miles outside of Port Angeles and started hiking at 7:35 pm. It was nearing dusk as I started, and by the time I got to the campsite, it was pretty dark. Had to use my headlamp to lay out my sleeping bag.

I knew it would be too dark when I arrived to find a tree and hang my food, so I brought my bear canister instead. This was a minimal camp, just my sleeping bag and pad and granola bars for breakfast. It got quite cold during the night and my sleeping bag was too thin to keep me warm. At 2 am I put my down jacket around my legs, and at 4 am I put my goretex parka on. I didn’t sleep much after 4:00, and I got up in the dim light at 5:45.

Ate my granola bars with some reconstituted whole milk for breakfast and started up the trail at 6:25. I missed my hot coffee and oatmeal. In the bottom of the canyon, the air was still quite cool and the light was dim. The sunlight didn’t hit me until well after 9:00.


The lower bridge

There are five bridges over the river as the trail crosses back and forth. The trail twists and turns in the lower portion, with lots of rocks and roots that make it hard to find one’s stride. But I made good time up the lower trail.

The Green rope bridge

About half way up, the trail begins to ascend the south slope on a steady grade. There are downed trees over the trail that have to be negotiated. But after a couple of miles the valley levels off and there is a stretch of almost flat trail. Really a pleasure to stride along this section, especially since the sun was shining at this point.

Sunlit trail

 The trail comes back to the creek and winds through thick alder and salmon berry brush before it starts up the last mile to the ridge. This section is aggressively steep, and I had to take many small breather stops to keep going. I was fatigued, and only the knowledge that the end was near kept me going.

Finally I heard voices above me and knew I was almost there. I emerged onto the asphalt path that runs along the ridge at 11:40. There was a crowd of hikers on the path, clad in LL Bean hiking gear, chatting merrily as they strolled along. I sat at the edge of the asphalt and ate lunch, ignoring them. It seemed like they had cheated by driving up to the ridge instead of sweating up it like I did.

The view down Little River drainage

I brought along dried peanut butter for the first time, but I added too much water and it turned into a runny mess. Awful. Next time I’ll bring regular old peanut butter.

Started down the trail at 12:25, slowing myself with my two hiking poles. Soon I could feel the strain on my thighs and knees as every step was a braking maneuver. I was glad to arrive at the flat stretch of trail where I could stride easily. About two pm I took a break in the sun. I was so tired I let myself fall into a delicious 30-minute nap. One of the best naps I can remember.

Continued down the trail quite a bit refreshed. The lower stretch felt new to me in the pleasant afternoon light. I’d hardly seen anything on the way up in the dim morning light. Arrived back at my campsite at 4:00 feeling quite tired. Packed up the things I had stored behind a tree and started out on the last two miles to the car.

Does this rock look like a moss-covered gnome to you?

Those last two miles were tough. I forced myself to put one foot in front of the other. Although it’s a good trail and nearly flat, in my fatigue it seemed like climbing Mount Everest. Finally arrived at the car at 5:30 and called Katy to let her know I was safe.

Drove to the Corner Caboose where I had the good sandwich last week and ordered a cheeseburger. It was divine.

Thursday, September 1, 2022

West end of Aurora Ridge

 I hiked up the west end of Aurora Ridge so that I have now completed the entire Aurora Ridge trail. 15.0 miles this trip and about 3,800 feet elevation gain.

Left home on Wednesday at 9:30, got my permit from the Wilderness Information Center at 11:15, reached the trailhead at 12:25. Hiked for an hour and had lunch, then continued up the ridge to the Eagle Lakes turnoff. The afternoon was hot and there was no breeze under the trees at first. My legs felt like lead.

 

After awhile the canopy opened up and I could feel a cooling breeze. The trail was lovely, leading steadily uphill through stands of timber. Reached the turnoff to Eagle Lakes at 4:10 and descended the 400 feet to the lake, arriving at 4:30. I was tired.

Afternoon sun on the trees at Eagle Lakes

    
My camp at Eagle Lakes  

The lake was serene, with the sun going down on the trees on the far side of the lake. Relaxed and solved a crossword puzzle, made dinner, read from Emerson's Essays. Asleep by nine.

Making coffee in the morning

Slept until six, then retrieved my food sack where I'd hung it. Made coffee, had granola and packed up. On the trail by 7:25. Climbed back up the 400 feet to the ridge trail, then continued along the ridge in the cool morning air. The trail continued along the ridge top, occasionally traversing on one side or the other. Not many views because of the trees.
Hiking along the ridge in the early morning

Stopped at Sourdough Camp to look at the old shelter runs and check the spring. It was completely dry. Arrived at the Aurora Creek trail junction at 11:10 and started down the switchbacks to the highway. Had lunch partway down the spine of the ridge.

Going down the steep Aurora Creek trail

The switchbacks were just as excruciating as the last time I descended them. My thighs were aching and my feet were sore by the time I got to the bottom. 

 When I reached the turnout on the highway, I called Clallam Transport and asked the dispatcher to tell the bus driver to stop for me. Waited for over an hour for the bus to arrive, just before 4:00, and climbed on for the short ride to Sol Duc road. 

Hiked up the road with my thumb out but I didn't have any luck for the first mile. Then a nice lady with a toddler in a car seat stopped for me. "Do you need something?" she asked. I think she felt sorry for me. She gave me a ride for the last 1.7 miles to the car.

Hitchhiking the last couple of miles to get back to my car

Drove in a leisurely manner into Port Angeles, where I stopped at the Corner Caboose, a tiny food truck at the outskirts of town, where I had the best pulled pork sandwich I can remember. The pork was tender and juicy with a deep smoked flavor, with cole slaw on a soft warm bun. Delicious. Home by 8:15 pm.

Thursday, August 18, 2022

East Aurora Ridge hike August 17-18, 2022

I hiked from the Storm King Ranger Station on Lake Crescent up Barnes Creek to Aurora Ridge, along the ridge, and then back to Highway 101 down Aurora Creek trail. 15.8 miles, 4,100 feet elevation gain.

On Wednesday morning I got up at 5:30 and was on the road at 6:05. At 8:25 I arrived at the Storm King Ranger Station and started up the Barnes Creek trail. This is the same trail I hiked last week, so I knew it well.

Lower Barnes Creek trail in the cool morning

I knew I had 8 miles and 3,700 feet of elevation to gain, so I walked steadily with a 15 minute break every hour. I was surprised at what good progress I made. My legs felt fine and I marched right up the trail. I got to the upper Barnes Creek camp at 3:00 and took a long break.

Upper Barnes Creek camp

From my last hike I knew there would be mosquitoes, so I brought my one-man tent, and it turned out to be a godsend. Around dinner time the mosquitoes came out in force, and by 8:00 I was forced to dive into the tent for my own protection. It was a relief to get away from them and watch them fly impotently outside the tent netting.

For this hike I brought the book Their Eyes Were Watching God by Zora Neale Hurston. It's considered a classic of black literature, written in 1937 by an author who was also an anthropologist. An excellent read.

Almost ready to leave in the morning

 I slept well, waking up very early. Had coffee and granola for breakfast and started hiking at 7:45. It was nice and cool as I started up the last few switchbacks. Got to the Aurora Ridge trail junction at 8:10 and started the hike along the ridge. 

It was easy going at first, almost level with a few ups and downs.Despite being up high, there are very few views because the ridge is well forested. There were a few places to peak out, and I saw views to the North and South.

Boulder Peak and Mt. Appleton to the South

Mount Olympus peaking through the trees.


Aurora meadow

About 10:30 I came to Aurora meadow, a long meadow on a steep slope below Aurora Peak. The trail gets lost in the meadows and it's hard to find where it resumes on the other side. Luckily the trail crew had improved the trail in the meadow and I was able to find Aurora Spring (only moist at this time of year). From there the trail disappeared, but after a little reconnoitering, I found where it left the meadow and continued on.

I reached the junction with the Aurora Creek trail just before noon, and took a break. I was very tired from the poor trail and the ups and down. Then I started down the switchbacks to Highway 101. This trail plunges down the side of the mountain without relenting. My thighs were screaming, my knees were aching, and my feet were protesting.

Looking down at the beautiful blue waters of Lake Crescent.

Finally I could see Lake Crescent through the trees and about 3:30 I emerged onto Highway 101. I called the dispatcher at Clallam Transit and asked him to tell the bus driver to pick me up when he came through. The bus was about twenty minutes late, but when I saw it I flagged it down. It took me to Storm King Ranger Station where my car was waiting.