Lower part of Hurricane Ridge Trail, September 19, 2022

I forgot to take my phone on this hike, so the post has no photos.

I hiked from the Madison Falls parking lot on the lower Elwha River up the Hurricane Ridge trail until I came out into the alpine meadows. I had lunch, then returned the way I came.

I split this trail into two parts so I could do it in two day hikes. This hike was the lower section. Later I'll hike from the Hurricane Ridge parking lot down to the point where I left off in the meadows.

I left home at 6:00 am and started hiking at 8:00. One hour of brisk hiking on the road brought me to the trailhead at 9:00. The trail climbs steadily through the forest with many switchbacks. At first there was a lot of ferns and brush, but as I got higher the forest became more open. It seemed like I was crawling up the switchbacks, stopping often for rest breaks, but as the morning wore on I made good progress. It was a lovely day, cool and clear.

About noon I began to see a break in the forest above, and soon I came out into the bottom of the meadows. I lost the trail and had to break through the bushes until I came across it higher on the slope. I struggled up one more switchback and took my lunch break at 12:40 pm.

I could see everything in the Elwha River valley below. It was gratifying to see the areas I've hiked in the past, especially up the Elwha and up Boulder Creek. After lunch I hiked up another switchback to a prominent tree that I can use as a landmark when I return to finish the trail. This was about 4,500 feet elevation.

I started back down at 1:20 and enjoyed an easy descent. The trail seemed so much more pleasant on the way down. I got to the trailhead at 4:00 and I was exhausted and my feet were sore. Took a twenty minute break, but my legs didn't want to get up and hike again.

Hiked down the road slowly and finally came to the trailhead at 5:00. I was glad to change my shoes and get in the comfortable seat of the car.

Got an ice cream cone in Port Angeles and arrived home for dinner at 7:00.

Up Little River trail to Hurricane Ridge September 5-6, 2022

 I hiked up Little River from the outskirts of Port Angeles to the top of Hurricane Ridge, 18.0 miles and 4,100 feet elevation gain, a tough hike.

In order to cut down the distance a little, I hiked in two miles on Monday night after dinner and camped at the first river crossing. Before I left home, Katy and I cooked eggs and pancakes for an early dinner, and I left home at 5:35 pm. Got to the trailhead about five miles outside of Port Angeles and started hiking at 7:35 pm. It was nearing dusk as I started, and by the time I got to the campsite, it was pretty dark. Had to use my headlamp to lay out my sleeping bag.

I knew it would be too dark when I arrived to find a tree and hang my food, so I brought my bear canister instead. This was a minimal camp, just my sleeping bag and pad and granola bars for breakfast. It got quite cold during the night and my sleeping bag was too thin to keep me warm. At 2 am I put my down jacket around my legs, and at 4 am I put my goretex parka on. I didn’t sleep much after 4:00, and I got up in the dim light at 5:45.

Ate my granola bars with some reconstituted whole milk for breakfast and started up the trail at 6:25. I missed my hot coffee and oatmeal. In the bottom of the canyon, the air was still quite cool and the light was dim. The sunlight didn’t hit me until well after 9:00.

The lower bridge

There are five bridges over the river as the trail crosses back and forth. The trail twists and turns in the lower portion, with lots of rocks and roots that make it hard to find one’s stride. But I made good time up the lower trail.

The Green rope bridge

About half way up, the trail begins to ascend the south slope on a steady grade. There are downed trees over the trail that have to be negotiated. But after a couple of miles the valley levels off and there is a stretch of almost flat trail. Really a pleasure to stride along this section, especially since the sun was shining at this point.

Sunlit trail

 The trail comes back to the creek and winds through thick alder and salmon berry brush before it starts up the last mile to the ridge. This section is aggressively steep, and I had to take many small breather stops to keep going. I was fatigued, and only the knowledge that the end was near kept me going.

Finally I heard voices above me and knew I was almost there. I emerged onto the asphalt path that runs along the ridge at 11:40. There was a crowd of hikers on the path, clad in LL Bean hiking gear, chatting merrily as they strolled along. I sat at the edge of the asphalt and ate lunch, ignoring them. It seemed like they had cheated by driving up to the ridge instead of sweating up it like I did.

The view down Little River drainage

I brought along dried peanut butter for the first time, but I added too much water and it turned into a runny mess. Awful. Next time I’ll bring regular old peanut butter.

Started down the trail at 12:25, slowing myself with my two hiking poles. Soon I could feel the strain on my thighs and knees as every step was a braking maneuver. I was glad to arrive at the flat stretch of trail where I could stride easily. About two pm I took a break in the sun. I was so tired I let myself fall into a delicious 30-minute nap. One of the best naps I can remember.

Continued down the trail quite a bit refreshed. The lower stretch felt new to me in the pleasant afternoon light. I’d hardly seen anything on the way up in the dim morning light. Arrived back at my campsite at 4:00 feeling quite tired. Packed up the things I had stored behind a tree and started out on the last two miles to the car.

Does this rock look like a moss-covered gnome to you?

Those last two miles were tough. I forced myself to put one foot in front of the other. Although it’s a good trail and nearly flat, in my fatigue it seemed like climbing Mount Everest. Finally arrived at the car at 5:30 and called Katy to let her know I was safe.

Drove to the Corner Caboose where I had the good sandwich last week and ordered a cheeseburger. It was divine.

West end of Aurora Ridge

 I hiked up the west end of Aurora Ridge so that I have now completed the entire Aurora Ridge trail. 15.0 miles this trip and about 3,800 feet elevation gain.

Left home on Wednesday at 9:30, got my permit from the Wilderness Information Center at 11:15, reached the trailhead at 12:25. Hiked for an hour and had lunch, then continued up the ridge to the Eagle Lakes turnoff. The afternoon was hot and there was no breeze under the trees at first. My legs felt like lead.

 

After awhile the canopy opened up and I could feel a cooling breeze. The trail was lovely, leading steadily uphill through stands of timber. Reached the turnoff to Eagle Lakes at 4:10 and descended the 400 feet to the lake, arriving at 4:30. I was tired.

Afternoon sun on the trees at Eagle Lakes

 

 

 

 

My camp at Eagle Lakes

 

 

The lake was serene, with the sun going down on the trees on the far side of the lake. Relaxed and solved a crossword puzzle, made dinner, read from Emerson's Essays. Asleep by nine.

Making coffee in the morning

Slept until six, then retrieved my food sack where I'd hung it. Made coffee, had granola and packed up. On the trail by 7:25. Climbed back up the 400 feet to the ridge trail, then continued along the ridge in the cool morning air. The trail continued along the ridge top, occasionally traversing on one side or the other. Not many views because of the trees.

Hiking along the ridge in the early morning

Stopped at Sourdough Camp to look at the old shelter runs and check the spring. It was completely dry. Arrived at the Aurora Creek trail junction at 11:10 and started down the switchbacks to the highway. Had lunch partway down the spine of the ridge.

Going down the steep Aurora Creek trail

The switchbacks were just as excruciating as the last time I descended them. My thighs were aching and my feet were sore by the time I got to the bottom. 

 When I reached the turnout on the highway, I called Clallam Transport and asked the dispatcher to tell the bus driver to stop for me. Waited for over an hour for the bus to arrive, just before 4:00, and climbed on for the short ride to Sol Duc road. 

Hiked up the road with my thumb out but I didn't have any luck for the first mile. Then a nice lady with a toddler in a car seat stopped for me. "Do you need something?" she asked. I think she felt sorry for me. She gave me a ride for the last 1.7 miles to the car.

Hitchhiking the last couple of miles to get back to my car

Drove in a leisurely manner into Port Angeles, where I stopped at the Corner Caboose, a tiny food truck at the outskirts of town, where I had the best pulled pork sandwich I can remember. The pork was tender and juicy with a deep smoked flavor, with cole slaw on a soft warm bun. Delicious. Home by 8:15 pm.

East Aurora Ridge hike August 17-18, 2022

I hiked from the Storm King Ranger Station on Lake Crescent up Barnes Creek to Aurora Ridge, along the ridge, and then back to Highway 101 down Aurora Creek trail. 15.8 miles, 4,100 feet elevation gain.

On Wednesday morning I got up at 5:30 and was on the road at 6:05. At 8:25 I arrived at the Storm King Ranger Station and started up the Barnes Creek trail. This is the same trail I hiked last week, so I knew it well.

Lower Barnes Creek trail in the cool morning

I knew I had 8 miles and 3,700 feet of elevation to gain, so I walked steadily with a 15 minute break every hour. I was surprised at what good progress I made. My legs felt fine and I marched right up the trail. I got to the upper Barnes Creek camp at 3:00 and took a long break.

Upper Barnes Creek camp

From my last hike I knew there would be mosquitoes, so I brought my one-man tent, and it turned out to be a godsend. Around dinner time the mosquitoes came out in force, and by 8:00 I was forced to dive into the tent for my own protection. It was a relief to get away from them and watch them fly impotently outside the tent netting.

For this hike I brought the book Their Eyes Were Watching God by Zora Neale Hurston. It's considered a classic of black literature, written in 1937 by an author who was also an anthropologist. An excellent read.

Almost ready to leave in the morning

 I slept well, waking up very early. Had coffee and granola for breakfast and started hiking at 7:45. It was nice and cool as I started up the last few switchbacks. Got to the Aurora Ridge trail junction at 8:10 and started the hike along the ridge. 

It was easy going at first, almost level with a few ups and downs.Despite being up high, there are very few views because the ridge is well forested. There were a few places to peak out, and I saw views to the North and South.

Boulder Peak and Mt. Appleton to the South

Mount Olympus peaking through the trees.

Aurora meadow

About 10:30 I came to Aurora meadow, a long meadow on a steep slope below Aurora Peak. The trail gets lost in the meadows and it's hard to find where it resumes on the other side. Luckily the trail crew had improved the trail in the meadow and I was able to find Aurora Spring (only moist at this time of year). From there the trail disappeared, but after a little reconnoitering, I found where it left the meadow and continued on.

I reached the junction with the Aurora Creek trail just before noon, and took a break. I was very tired from the poor trail and the ups and down. Then I started down the switchbacks to Highway 101. This trail plunges down the side of the mountain without relenting. My thighs were screaming, my knees were aching, and my feet were protesting.

Looking down at the beautiful blue waters of Lake Crescent.

Finally I could see Lake Crescent through the trees and about 3:30 I emerged onto Highway 101. I called the dispatcher at Clallam Transit and asked him to tell the bus driver to pick me up when he came through. The bus was about twenty minutes late, but when I saw it I flagged it down. It took me to Storm King Ranger Station where my car was waiting.

From the shores of Lake Crescent to the top of Happy Lake Ridge

On an overnight hike, I hiked to the top of Happy Lake Ridge and connected up with the Happy Lake trail that I hiked in 2020. 18.8 miles and 4,400 feet of elevation gain.

Left home at 11:00 am on Wednesday and drove to the Storm King Ranger Station parking lot. Started hiking up the Barnes Creek trail at 1:45. There are tons of people on the first half mile, going to Marymere Falls, but after I left the crowds behind, I didn't see a soul.

The skies were gray and the afternoon seemed dull and lifeless, but the weather forecast was for sunny skies the next day. I was mindful of my weak left ankle and my tender left big toe, so I walked carefully up the steep stretches of the trail. Since I had plenty of time, I walked at a moderate pace and my toe and ankle gave me no problems at all.

Dismal Draw camp

I set up camp and made a fire to make it a little more cheerful. I read the essay Nature from a book of essays by Ralph Waldo Emerson. Not sure I understood most of it. Had dinner (freeze dried lasagna, not very good) and kept reading. Got in my sleeping bag at 8:30 and fell asleep soon after.

Woke up at 5:45, had coffee and granola for breakfast and started hiking at 7:15. It was a cool, clear morning and it was pleasant to hike in the fresh morning air. 

Looking across to Storm King Mountain in the morning mist

The trail zigzags up an Eastern-facing slope that has a stand of mature hemlock and Doug fir. Nice and open with hardly any underbrush.

I counted 41 switchbacks as I slowly made my way up the slope. The trail is in great shape, with a smooth tread and a steady grade. What a pleasure to hike. I took a 15 minute break every hour, and I was pleased to see that my legs held up well. My toe and my ankle also did fine. On the advice of my niece, Annie Jo, I used two hiking poles this trip, and I think they helped me walk in a more upright and balanced way, which helped my feet.

I arrived at the Aurora Ridge trail junction at 10:45 and was swarmed with clouds of mosquitoes. I had planned to take a nice long break at this point, but instead I put on my headnet and long sleeved shirt and kept on going.

 

 The top of the ridge

The last 1.8 miles along the ridgetop was tougher than I expected, but I arrived at the junction with the Happy Lake Ridge trail just before noon. I was last at this junction in 2020, when I hiked the Happy Lake Ridge loop. 

Proof that I made it to the top

Turned around and started down. Found a good place for lunch and a brief rest, then continued on. My legs felt good so I just kept going down the switchbacks. It was lovely in the afternoon air, ambling down the trail.

 

Going down through the big timber

Got back to camp at 3:15 and took a good long rest, including a short nap. I was tired, but I wanted to get home and sleep in my own bed, so at 4:00 I shouldered my pack and started back to the car. The last four miles were weary ones with many short breaks, but I got back to the car at 6:00 and called Katy.

Stopped at a hamburger drive-through joint in Port Angeles and got a double cheeseburger. It tasted great! Home by 8:30.

Barnes Creek on a hot day

Hiked up Barnes Creek near Lake Crescent to Dismal Draw camp. 8 miles and 1,400 feet elevation gain.

I wanted to check out the campsite at Dismal Draw to see if it would be a good place to camp on my way to hike to the top of Happy Lake Ridge. In Robert Woods' guide book, he mentions a camp here with water, so I thought I'd check it out.

Left home at 6:30 am, got to the trailhead at Storm King Ranger Station and started hiking by 8:45. Still pretty cool under the big trees and not too many hikers on the Marymere Falls trail.

 The creek is quite lovely in the lower reaches.

The trail goes up and down as it avoids several cliffs next to the creek. I found myself getting tired on the uphill sections. It was a warm day and the heat seemed to sap my energy.

 Made it to the Dismal Draw Camp at 10:45 and took a break. It's not really dismal, in fact it seemed kind of peaceful and quiet. Nice little brook nearby.

Continued up the trail past the junction that leads to the Aurora Ridge Trail. 

Turned back after a particularly good viewpoint looking out over Barnes Creek and Storm King Mountain. Had lunch at the campsite and took a good 15-minute nap. Started down at 12:45

On the way up, my left ankle was giving me trouble. Because I'm favoring my left big toe, there's additional stress on my ankle. Made it to the car at 2:35 and started home. Got a coffee at Starbucks in Sequim and made it home by 5:00.

Marmot Pass on a sore ankle

 Marmot Pass July 5, 2022

10.6 miles and 3,500 feet elevation gain

Left home at 6:45 and got to the trailhead at 8:15, started hiking at 8:25. It was a cool, clear morning and the air was fresh on the trail. The first part of the trail is up and down through the big trees, with the river to your left.

The lower trail

 I got to Shelter Rock camp at 9:45, going at a pretty decent pace. Took a good break and started up the trail which has a long, steady incline. I felt pretty strong and kept a steady pace, slowing down when I got winded.

I got to the avalanche chutes and saw flowers, but not as many as I've seen in previous trips. Too early, I guess. The view across the valley to the mountains was splendid.

 

Avalanche chute

Mountains across the valley

There was a little snow on the switchbacks above Camp Mystery, but it was easy to walk on. By this time I was getting pretty tired and my left ankle was starting to hurt a little. Arrived at Marmot Pass at 12:15, just under four hours. Only saw two guys and a single hiker on the way up.

At the pass

 I climbed the knob above the pass and sat down on a ledge looking out over the Dungeness River Valley with a great view. Enjoyed a lunch of cheese, raisins, crackers, peanut butter, chocolate, and an orange.

Started down at 1:05 feeling a little stiff. Met a group of six women in their sixties from Bainbridge Island. One of them said they've done this hike half a dozen times. As I walked downhill, my left big toe and my left achilles tendon started to bother me. I think I've been favoring my toe and walking in such a way as to inflame the tendon. Tried to ignore the pain and go easy as I went down the trail.

At Shelter Rock Camp I looked around for a big rock that would be the "shelter," because I was mystified that I'd never seen one. Sure enough, I found a rock with an overhang big enough to sleep under, except that the river is now flowing under the overhang. Maybe it was a good camp shelter years ago.

Lots of people on the trail going down, something like 16. Clouds moved in and it started raining lightly just as I got back to the car. Made it back to the car at 3:50 and started home. Got a good cup of coffee at the new coffee stand in Quilcene.

Up the Dungeness River to Boulder Shelter

Friday, June 24, 2022 - 12.6 miles and 2,000 feet elevation gain

I left the house at 6:30 am and started hiking at the trailhead at 8:45. It was a beautiful day for hiking -- cool and clear all day. The air felt cold as I headed up the Dungeness River trail, but I warmed up as I strode along. It felt good to be hiking. 

The big firs on the lower trail

Footbridge over the Dungeness River

 I got to Royal Creek in twenty minutes and I arrived at the footbridge at 9:45, exactly one hour. Took a ten minute break and met a photographer coming down the trail. He was hoping to photograph the rhododendron blossoms, but they were still in tight little buds.

Hiked past Camp Handy and started into the steep section of the trail. I felt surprisingly strong and took very few breaks. When I got tired, I just slowed my pace a little. Took a break after another hour. The last mile and a half to Boulder Shelter always seems to take forever because there are no landmarks.

 Finally I reached some good views across the valley and not long after that I emerged into the meadows at Boulder Shelter.

The boulders at Boulder Shelter

I leaned my back against a small boulder and enjoyed a leisurely lunch of peanut butter and crackers, raisins and cheese, chocolate, and an orange. Drifted off into a nice nap in the warm sun.

I woke up at the sound of hiker's voices and decided to pack up and leave. I made my way back down the trail at a leisurely pace, daydreaming as I went. The miles seemed to fly by, and I got to the trailhead at 4:15. Stopped at Camp Handy for a break on the way back.

I was really pleased to find that I'm in pretty good shape. My left big toe, which has bothered me in the past, gave me no trouble at all.

Dosewallips River hike

I planned to hike to the Dosewallips Ranger Station for an early season hike. There used to be a gravel road all the way to the ranger station, but the road washed out in 2003, making it only a foot trail on the old road bed. The weather forecast called for rain in the afternoon, but I decided to go anyway and I was lucky. It was overcast the whole day, but no rain.

My plan was to hike a couple of hours, then turn around. But when I got to the park boundary and the sign said only 1.2 miles to the campground, I decided to go all the way. I hiked 13.5 miles in total with 1,100 feet elevation gain. Pretty good for early in the season.

 

The approach from the parking area is now a mile longer than it used to be because the Forest Service blocked the entrance road at a small slide. This isn't all bad, because the first mile is a pleasant stroll along a flat trail. The main road washout a mile in is easier to get around now, and I had no trouble. (The last time I hiked this trail was in 2014).

The old road makes a good surface for the first major hike of the year. The fine gravel surface and steady incline makes it easy to stride along.

 I left home at 7:45 and started hiking at 9:15. I explored Elkhorn Campground located at mile 1.5, and found it's a delightful area along the river with many fine campsites. It would make for an easy overnight someday. From the campground, the road leads steadily upward, and once I got my stride, the miles seemed to fly by. My legs felt fine and I took only one or two breaks.

When I got to the falls, the canyon was filled with the sound of rushing water from melting snowpack up higher. The amount of water crashing down the rocks is stunning. Took a few photos to capture the magnificent volume. From there it was an easy stroll to the campground, although by this time my legs were getting tired. 

I hiked up to the old ranger station to find that it has deteriorated a lot since I was last here. A couple of trees have fallen, shearing off parts of the porch roof. An man in his sixties launched into a long description of the place. He said he's come to this campground since he was a boy, and he often makes the hike once a week. Lots of lore about the place.

Ate lunch at a picnic table by the river and started down. My legs were complaining and my left big toe hurt on the downhill sections. Probably I should have cut this hike a bit shorter, but I just kept trundling along and got back to the car by 3:15. A good day!

Big Creek Loop: First Hike of 2022

I didn't hike at all during 2021 because I was building my art studio. This was my first hike of 2022.

This hike was a test run to see if I’m in shape. I did the 4.2 mile hike with 850 feet of elevation gain in two hours without stopping. It felt good!

The trail follows an old logging road that goes up steeply for the first couple miles (going counterclockwise). The weather was cloudy with just enough light showers to keep me cool. I went steadily uphill, slowing down for the steep sections, until I got to the first creek.

After that the trail was up and down until I got to Big Creek, at which point it went downhill, flattened out, then another downhill section before flattening out along the creek. The trail was in great shape with a wide tread. Lots of people on the trail, even on a Thursday afternoon.

 

I was concerned about the condition of my feet, especially my left big toe. My feet felt great on the uphill portion of the trail, but coming down I had some pain in the front part of my left foot. But actually it wasn’t too bad, and I feel like I’m in pretty good shape.

A good starter hike for this year’s hiking season.